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Tulear (Toliara)
What to see | Where to sleep | Where to eat | Nightclubs | Shopping | Transportation | Practical guide
| Toliara (or Tulear) is often called "the White" as opposition to the “Red Tana". This nickname comes from the exceptional luminosity of the sky. In fact the town itself with approximately 60,000 inhabitants is relatively modern, just created in 1895 by a French architect, who laid a big importance in planting tress in the city, which offer now a welcome shady protection from the blazing sun. Today Toliara, the capital of the same named region, is a lively and young city with an important university, which is founded in 1970 as the second institution of tertiary education behind the University of Tana. |  Pousse-pousse is the best way to move around © Madagascar Travel Guide |
- Museums
Despite being a rather small university with only 2,000
students the
University of Toliara cares for the maintenance of the main two museums
of the city, which are also two of the most important attractions in
town, the municipal museum and the sea museum. The first one is located
on Boulevad Philbert Tsiranana. It offers some remarkable exhibits like
some Sakalava erotic tomb sculptures and several masks of the Mikea
tribe. Malagasy call anyone who lives in the forest by hunting and
gathering Mikea, who are actually not an ethnic group or a tribe. Being
Mikea also entails managing connotations of primitivism Many people in
Madagascar class Mikea among the "tompontany taloha" (past landowners),
folkloric beings thought to have inhabited Madagascar before the
arrival of the proto-Malagasy from Indonesia and Africa. Some believe
Mikea to be Vazimba, ghosts or living relicts of a primitive people.
The sea museum (Musée de la Mer on Route de la
Porte) will
fascinate marine enthusiasts. The main attraction is a not so well
preserved coelacanth, the only in Madagascar. Coelacanth is prehistoric
fish once thought to be extinct since the end of the Cretaceous period,
until a specimen was found in 1938. The entrance to the museum is free
of charge.
The third main attraction of Toliara is its market, which is lively and
interesting, as well as one of the best places to buy lambas (pareos).
What to see in the surrounding area
- Arboretum d'Antsokay
Web: www.antsokayarboretum.org
Admission fee: 10,000Ar
Open from 7:30 to 5 pm
Antsokay is a botanical garden specialised in the flora and
fauna of
Southwest Madagascar that should not be missed by anyone. The Arboretum
was created around 1980, on the initiative of a Swiss amateur botanist,
Hermann Pétignat who died in 2000 and is located at 12 km
south-east from the Toliara town.
 |
|
| White orchids © Madagascar Travel Guide |
On a surface of 40 hectares there are almost 900 species of plants, 90% endemic to the region. A trained English-speaking guide takes you on a two-hour tour of the impoved area, where visitors see around a hundred of species of Euphornia and 60 species of Kalanchoe, as well as an abundance of reptiles and birds. Try to arrive as early as possible in the morning to miss the heat of the day. Excellent meals à la carte are served at the restaurant Dry Forest, situated in the heart of the reserve. Long time visitors can overnight in Antsokay. Accommodation is in bungalows (30,000Ar for a double bungalow) designed for one or two persons and equipped with private bathroom and mosquito nets. It is also possible to camp (10,000 Ar).
- Tombs
The most spectacular tombs within reach are those of the Masikoro, a subgroup of the Sakalava. The tombs are off RN7, a little over an hour of Toliara, and are visible on the right. There are several large, rectangular tombs, painted with scenes from the distinguished military life of the deceased. These are known as the tombs of Andranovory. On the outskirts of town beyond the university there is the Tomb of King Baba, descendant of the Masikoro kings of Baba, who died about 100 years ago. The tomb is set in a grove of Didierea trees and is interesting more for the somewhat bizarre funerary objects displayed than for any aesthetic value.
Where to sleep (Hotels in alphabetical order, prices from 2011)
Budget | Middle class | High end
style="font-weight: bold;">Budget accommodations
Al Shame
Phone: +
261 20 94 447 28
Twelve rooms with seafront location. Some of the rooms have en-suite
facilities.
Le Refuge
Phone: + (261) 20 94 423 28
A pleasent hotel in a central location with a beautiful garden and a
small pool. Double room between 25,000 and 35,000 Ar, triple room
between 33,000 and 35,000 Ar (with or without AC)
Le Forban
Phone: + 261 032 04 781 15
Central located, this welcoming hotel has rooms with cold water and
shared toilets for 20,000 Ar.
Middle class hotels
Chez Alain
Phone: + 261 94 415 27
Web: www.hotelchezalain-tulear.com
email: c.alain@moov.mg
Very popular hotel with foreign
visitors on small and medium budget. The bungalows are very comfortable
and the common area with a bar is fantastic. There is also a convivial
bar and an excellent restaurant. The diving centre L'ancre bleue is
based here. The place can also help organising car rental and have good
bikes for hire.
Double
bungalow from 25,000 to 50,000 Ar depending on the facilities, rooms
with all facilities and AC for 70,000 Ar, a suite for 100,000 Ar
Hotel Albatros
Phone: + 261 94 432 10
Hotel painted in blue and white with 12 rooms, some of them equipped
with AC
Hotel Plazza
Phone: + 261 20 94 903 06
Probably the oldest hotel in town. The
garden facing the sea have been recently refurbished. Major
credit cards are accepted.
Hotel Paletuvier
Phone: + 261 20 94 440 39
Mail: hotelpaletuviertul@yahoo.fr
Web: http://www.madadecouverte.com/le-paletuvier/
Standard hotel with 14 rooms, pool.
Hotel Tropical
Clean good hotel with rooms equipped with TV and AC
La Residence
D´Ankily
Phone: + (261) 20 94 445 50 / 032 40 328 77
Mail: laresidenceankily@yahoo.fr
New hotel located at the entrance of Tulear with 10 welcoming, big and
very comfortable rooms with private facilities and AC. Good value!
A double room costs 26 €
L'Escapade
phone: + 261 20 22 246 90
email: Escapade@wanadoo.mg
escapade@moov.mg
Web: www.escapadetulear.com
A brand new hotel in a good location with 10 double bungalows with hot
water and private facilities at 45,000 Ar.
Nice and quiet place with clean rooms and a cute garden. The restaurant
serves delicious meals on a beautiful terrace. Very good choice!
Le Recif hotel
Phone: + 261 94 446 88
Nice hotel with swimming pool and attached restaurant with ocean views.
The 18 rooms have all private facilties and hot water, some of them AC
and some ventilator.
Le Sax'Aphone
Phone: +(261) 20 94 440 88
email: madasax@live.fr
Web: http://www.tulear-hotel-saxaphone.com
Nice guesthouse with German, French and
English speaking personal with a homely atmosphere. The place
has three rooms in the main house and four bungalows in the
garden. There's a restaurant serving excellent food and a piano bar.
A bungalow costs 24 € and a room 17 €
Saphir Hotel
Phone: + 261 94 436 79
Central located next to the Eden Hotel, the Saphir Hotel offers double
rooms with AC and hot water between 15 and 19 € and
familiar
rooms for 34 €
Eden hotel
Phone: + 261 20 94 415 66
email: eden.hotel@yahoo.fr
Nice hotel in a central location with 34 rooms with
all comforts: TV,
phone, minibar, AC and safe. The restaurant was closed in 2009.
A double room costs 28 €, a familiar 35 €
Le Capricorne
Phone: + 261 94 426 20
email: capricorne@madagascar-resorts.com
Web: www.madagascar-resorts.com/pages/Capricorne
Nice, well-maintained place 2 km from
town centre with a nice garden belonging to the Madagascar Resorts
Groupe SHTM. Popular with package tour groups. The big complex
has
45 rooms divided in different price categories after the comforts
offered (AC, TV, mini-bar, etc.) The restaurant serves good
international food.
Single rooms from 23 to 47 €, double rooms from 26 to 50
€, triple from 44 to 51 €, familiar from 55 to 66
€
Le Paille en
Queue
Phone: + 261 94 446 99
email: kris.san@wanadoo.fr
pailleenqueue@moov.mg
Web: www.pailleenqueue.com
High standard hotel, close to the airport and
just a few minutes from the centre of Tulear.
18 beatifully decorated bungalows with all comforts. The pool is superb
and the restaurant serves excellent meals. Recommended!
A double bungalow costs 55 € with breakfast
Hotel Hyppocampo
Phone: + (261) 20 94 410 21
Mail: info@hyppocampo.com
Web: http://www.hyppocampo.com
Luxury
hotel by the
sea with 10 rooms and 2 suites . The hole place is impeccable in every
detail, the pool is cute and there is even a massage room.
Double room for 65 €, a suite costs 97 €
Hotel Victory
Phone: + 261 20 94 440 64
Mail: hotelvictory.tulear@gmail.com
Web: www.hoteltulear-victory.com
Upmarket hotel with a big pool under Indian management on the road to
the airport at the entrance of Toliara. All rooms are
impeccable
and comfortable, with AC and hot water. Good quality-price relationship.
Two small rooms for 15 €, 19 double rooms standard from 28 to
38
€, 16 double rooms with all comforts for 42 € and two
familiar rooms for 52 €
Serena Hotel
Phone:+ (261) 20 94 411 73
Mail: serenatulear@gmail.com
Web: http://www.serenatulear.com
Another
brand new hotel built in the centre of Tulear with 8 functional,
comfortable and nicely decorated rooms with all comforts. Good choice!
Double room for 20 € and twin room for 30 €
Good and cheap
Chez Zazah
Popular and simple
bistro with local and
Chinese food. Good prices!
On the corner of Rue du
France and Boulevard
Philbert. Traditional and European food, friendly atmosphere and a nice
open
air place for eating.
Snacks, pizzas,
hamburgers and cakes.
Next to Pl du
Marché, cosy small Indian
restaurant ideal for breakfast or lunch. Delicious pastries, salads,
kebabs and
tees. Recommended.
Boulevard Gallieni not
far from
Rue du Commerce. Tasty
Greek food for a change.
Good prices and big portions.
Boulevard Lyautay.
Popular place, specialised
in steaks and grilled meat.
Absolutely amazing place, great
service and seafood not from this planet! The menu is large and they
make different versions of everything - from local sauces to Chinese
spices.
Gelateria
Italiana
Delicious ice cream, juices and coffee. Just opposite the Memorial
school.
Good tables
La Cascade
Phone: (261) 032 50 106
90
Located on the Place de la Republique, this restaurant serves very good
local and international dishes and fantastic cocktails.
Le Jardin
Phone: 261 20 94 428 18
Rue
Général Leclerc
Very popular Italian restaurant with local
dishes as well. Delicious meals, big portions, friendly atmosphere and
nice
decoration. It can be crowded!
Phone: (261) 032 02 093 45
On the Boulevard
Gallieni opposite to the Post
Office. Welcoming restaurant serving very good seafood, steaks, pizzas.
Evenings it is a popular bar with locals and at weekends there is live
music.
Good choice.
Mail: escapade@moov.mg
Boulevard Gallieni
Opposite to
Phone: 261 20 94 433 15
Opossite to
Hôtel Eden. It is maybe the best
restaurant in town: beautifully decorated, good and friendly service
and superb
food, specially Italian dishes and pâtés.
Club ZaZa
It is the oldest and
most popular club in town.
Clients are a mixture of locals, expats and tourists, music is a
mixture of
local and western hits as well (the dancing competitions are really
funny!). There
is also a restaurant inside.
Bo Beach
Phone: 261 032 04 009 13
Next to the jetty to Anakao, this beach bar opens every evening until
midnight. Beautiful terrace towards the sea to have a drink or a snack,
play billiard or dance with the local people. Fun for sure!
Phone: 261 032 44 217 99
New club next to
Hôtel Palétuvier by the sea. Opened everyday
except
Tuesdays from midday until late at night. There is a big dancing floor,
lots of cocktails and snacks, and live music at weekends.
Shopping
|
Le Tapis Malgache (Show
room Tapis Mohair)
Bureau de liaison BP 261 Phone: + (261) 20 94 438 16 Web: www.letapismalgache.com The doubtless star of all crafts are certainly the mohair carpets. The weaving of mohair carpets is time consuming and tedious and are therefore very rare worldwide. If you are interested in these, the workshop of Eric Mallet might be a good address. |
 © Le Tapis malgache |
Bafana Boutik
Souvenir shop selling
very good quality local
items (t-shirts, art, lambas)
This boutique, next to
Alliance Francaise, has
a good selection of marvellous tapestries weaved in a traditional way.
They sell good quality souvenirs at fair
prices. T-shirts are really trendy!
Located on the
Boulevard Gallieni by the sea,
this shop has a wide range of huge and spectacular seashells. Some of
them are
in danger of extinction, so be sure what you are buying (when doing it
you are
collaborating to its extinction)
In this shop you can
buy all kind of gemstones.
Central located, Visa accepted.
By road:
RN7 is
served by a variety of vehicles. Buses usually
depart from Tana early in the morning (6-7 am). Starting from Tulear to
Antananarivo, the ride takes around 4 hours to Ranohira (about 15,000
Ar), 5 to Ihosy (17,000 Ar), 8 hours to Ambalavao (20,000 Ar), 9 hours
to Fianarantsoa (24,000 Ar), around 17 hours to Antsirabe (30,000 Ar)
and 20 hours until Tana (40,000 Ar)
There are regular taxi-brousse services from Tulear to Ifaty-Mangily
along a good track, and southwards through a terrible road: to
Saint-Augustin (departures at midday and arrival the next morning!) and
to Anakao (one more day of horrible driving since you have to cross the
Onilahy River and it can take very long)
There is also a conection between Toliara and Fort Dauphin along the
inland route since the coastal track can only be driven with a jeep.
The journey takes around 30 hours until Fort Dauphin and costs about
38,000 Ar. The taxi-brousse stops many times along the way: Betioky,
Ejeda, Ampanihy, Ambovombe, Ambosoary.
By boat: this is the best way to continue your travel to the south of Madagascar or to reach Ifaty. From Tulear to Anakao and to Ifaty the canoe trip takes a couple of hours with good weather and depending on the wind direction. These are a pair of good companies:
La
Compagnie du Sud
Mail: compagniedusud@yahoo.fr
Web: http://www.compagniedusud.com
Departures from Tulear to Anakao and viceversa at 7, 11 and 14. Journey
takes two hours and costs 20 € for a single way. They also
offer
excursions to Saint-Augustin, Nosy Ve, whale watching, and longer
transfers until Itampolo.
Malagasy
Sud Vedette
Mail: ambolamsv@yahoo.fr
Web: http://www.ambola-madagascar.com
Same owners as the Hotel Ambola, they offer daily tranfers from Tulear
to Anakao (20 €) and Ambola (40 €), and trips to
Ifaty,
Mangily, Salary, Nosy Ve, Nosy Satrana. They also
By air: There is a daily flight connection from Tana to
Toliara and
return and direct flights to Fort Dauphin.
In town, pousse-pousse are really plentiful and doubtless the best
method to move around. Fares are higher at night than during the day.
Do not bargain too hard! Life of pousse pousse drivers is a hard one.
Practical guide
Alliance Francaise
Boulevard Lyautey
Phone: 94 426 62
Web: http://www.alliancefr.mg/frame_tulear.htm
Mail: aftulear@yahoo.fr
Tanambo 601
Phone: 94 43 805
Web: http://www.tulear-tourisme.com/
Mail: ortu@tulear-tourisme.com
Phone: 94 41 020
Phone : 94 42 736
Rue Lucciard
Phone: 94 435 70
Mail: angaptle@moov.mg
You will get all the information you need about
the National Parks in the southern
Boulevard Gallieni
Web: www.aguadecoco.org
This organisation helps the poorest people in
the region. They organise different activities and regional projects
(live
music, films, t-shirts, bike rental, handcraft, workshops) in order to
collect
some money for their fair cause.
Web: http://www.quad-du-capricorne.com
A good agency to rent quads to explore some remote areas around Tulear,
with or without guide. Price is 40 € for
half a day
and 65 for the whole day. Very professional!
Banks
Rue Flayelle
Phone: 94 420 16
Boulevard Campistron
Phone: 94 417 71
Rue du Marché
Phone: 94 442 51
Socimad
Corner of Rue de l`Eglise
and Rue Pére Joseph Castan
Phone: 94 437 95
Andabizy
Phone: 94 422 47 / 032 02 294 51
Tsenengea
Phone: 94 418 55
